I wanted to show you how I gave a facelift to our window moulding. Funky Junk Interiors was the inspiration on this project. I have long admired her bathroom window and I knew I wanted something like it for my dining room. So I read her post about how she put hers together and off I went to get my supplies.
How many boards you will need will depend on the size of your window. The size boards you use for your window will also depend on your taste. If you like a larger apron or taller header, then alter your shopping list accordingly.
Here is how all those different sized boards will be applied to the window.
Let’s take one step back, it wouldn’t be a makeover if I didn’t show you where I started.
The cuts on this window didn’t make sense to me. They didn’t even match the other window in the room. The only reason I didn’t do something sooner is because I have always had curtains in the dining room so it was a bit of “out of sight, out of mind.”
Side note, someone could have told me that these shiny curtains didn’t make any sense at all in my house. I’m not too sure what I was thinking.
Anyway, let’s get on with it.
1. The first thing you have to do is take off the moulding you are replacing. I only had to remove the top piece of my large window because the rest was fine. The small window had to go completely.
2. While you have the moulding off it would be a good time to grab some spray foam insulation and fill in any gaps between the window and the drywall. Wait for it to fully expand and dry and then cut any that may have expanded beyond the drywall.
3. The first piece of wood to put up is the apron. This piece will be cut to the width of your window plus the width of your two side pieces. This is seriously important in order to avoid ANOTHER trip to the lumber yard. Make sure it is flush with the portion of the window that the sill will sit on or you will have a wobbly sill. I used a nail compressor and brad nailer to shoot this in and that part was done.
4. The window sill will sit under the side mouldings, so that comes next. This is the only tricky cut in the entire project. You need to measure the inside width of the window where you want the sill to sit in. Then the “wings” on either side will be the remaining width to the end of the apron. The side moulding will hide SOME level of mistakes on this cut, but do your best.
5. Now put this piece in place and nail it straight into the apron.
Note: You could skip the sill if your window can’t support it. In this case you would just sit the side trim directly on top of the apron.
6. Now, you are ready for the side pieces. For this look, the pieces will only go to the top of the window so you can place the next piece straight across the top.
7. The first 1×2 is placed sitting on the side moulding. You will have to turn it on its side so the one inch portion is facing you. I wanted a very small overhang with this piece so I only cut it a 1/2″ longer than the width of the side mouldings so there is only 1/4″ overhang on either side. This is just a preference so please cut it for the overhang you prefer.
8. The 1×4 header comes next and you will want to line that up so it is even with the side mouldings.
9. The 1×2 will be right on top of the header and the 1×3 will be on top of that. I nailed these pieces to each other before I added them to the window. Make sure your nails aren’t longer than the sum of your wood or you will nail them into your work surface. Put a little wood glue between these pieces before joining them.
Cut the 1×2, 1″ longer than the header and the 1×3 1″ longer than the 1×2. So there will be a 1/2″ overhang on each side making a beautiful stacked look.
9. Nail the stacked top straight into the wall. Be sure to find studs and be sure your nails are long enough to make it through the 1×2.
I like this look so much better! It adds character and detail that my windows lacked before.
This is how my larger window turned out. Luckily it’s just under 8′ long so I could use single boards instead of having a seam. If you have a window over 8′ you could use two boards and hide the seam with joint compound or caulk, or buy 12′ boards.